Eine der großen Wein-Ikonen der Toskana

Saffredi 2013

Fattoria Le Pupille

Toskana, Italien

Wine Advocate, Januar 2017 (Parker/Larner)

98/100

There's a lot to say, and admire, about the 2013 Saffredi. First off all, this is the first growing cycle made under the careful watch of enologist Luca D'Attoma. This makes all the difference. One of his changes is an increased focus on Petit Verdot, which makes up to 15% of the blend in this case. The other grapes used are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. But the increased role of Petit Verdot has awarded this vintage with stunning precision, linearity and balance. It's like a light switch has suddenly been turned on. Petit Verdot on the Tuscan Coast tends to show softer and fuller lines. In this wine, you taste the tonic crunchiness of the grape skins instead. The dark concentration of the wine is pleasurable and rich, and there's a final acidic signature that closes the deal in style. Congratulations.

No one, absolutely no one, can resist the persuasive charm of Elisabetta Geppetti. I fell under her spell years ago and was delighted to spend more time with her recently as she oversaw incoming fruit during harvest. She wore a smile that lit up the winery. Grape picking and rose gardening constitute her favorite activities of the year. She proudly lifted the lid on a giant Tuscan clay pot with whole berries of Syrah at the start of fermentation. She had personally picked the grapes the day before and wanted to show me how perfectly clean and pristine each single berry appears among that mass of dark fruit. Luca D'Attoma, her detailed-minded consulting enologist, fastened the lid of the clay jar securely once she had finished admiring the proverbial fruits of her labor. This dynamic team, Geppetti-D'Attoma, is quickly changing things around at Fattoria le Pupille. The oak philosophy is being revamped and all the estate wines are gradually moving towards bigger and more neutral wood. There is new work being done with Syrah (results that I am very excited to taste when they are ready) and Petit Manseng (that I was able to taste, although the wine still does not have a name). I've included a preliminary review of the Petite Manseng here. The best news of all regards the Tuscan red blend Saffredi. I don't recall ever tasting a finer vintage than 2013.