Raymond Usseglio • Chateauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges 2021

Extravaganter, grandioser Chateauneuf du Pape

Chateauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges 2021

Domaine Raymond Usseglio

Rhône, Frankreich

Wine Advocate 9/23 (Parker/Czerwinski)

98/100

A blend of 70% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges is the first vintage of this cuvée to be vinified in demi-muids. The cedar seems more subtle and better integrated than past vintages as a result, adding nuance to the other aromas of crushed stone, plums and black cherries. Full-bodied, rich and velvety in texture, with a near-limitless finish, this is simply super stuff.

Stephan Usseglio has propelled this certified organic and biodynamic estate, named for his father, to among the top ranks of the region. In addition, he has continued to experiment, trying out various different aging and fermentation vessels, monovarietal cuvées and blending outside the appellation boundaries to create innovative Vins de France, which often offer considerable value. As part of his efforts to rein in alcohol levels, he's planting Clairette when he needs to replace a dead Grenache vine. "It's a degree or two less [of potential alcohol] at harvest," Usseglio said.

The white wines have improved in quality over the last several vintages and have become a focus at the domaine, which now produces 25% white wines. There are limited-production, high-end versions of pure Clairette and Roussanne, but don't overlook the blended cuvée, which is also excellent.

In 2021, Usseglio said, "We were lucky to not get frosted—only five out of 25 hectares were affected." Of course, he and his pickers had to dodge the same raindrops as everyone else during harvest, but his 2021s have turned out really well. In 2022, he said, "We had a good winter, then it was very dry, with small berries. With the coolish nights, the vines didn't stop—we already had finesse at the end of August. The ferments went fast, malolactic was quick [and] the wines are accessible early, like 2007."

If the wines really turn out like 2007, the 2022 vintage could be one for the ages—and not just at this domaine.

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